LAURETH-4, LAURETH-12, LAURETH-23 & OLETH-10/20 Guide
Laureth and Oleth ingredients are ethoxylated fatty alcohols — non-ionic surfactants derived from lauryl alcohol (C12–C14) or oleyl alcohol (C18 unsaturated). The EO number controls HLB, water solubility, and whether the grade works best in oil cleansers, O/W lotions, or fragrance solubilization. Venus Ethoxyethers supplies Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-10, and Oleth-20 for personal care and cosmetic formulations.
What are Laureth and Oleth?
Laureth = polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol (C12–C14). Oleth = polyethylene glycol ether of oleyl alcohol (C18, monounsaturated). Both are made by ethoxylation — adding ethylene oxide units to the alcohol hydroxyl group. The number (4, 12, 23, etc.) is the average EO mole count.
Water solubility increases with EO count. Low-EO laureths are more oil-soluble; high-EO laureths are waxy solids that excel at solubilizing fragrances and essential oils in aqueous systems.
Laureth HLB comparison
| INCI | EO moles | HLB (approx.) | Physical form | Primary use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LAURETH-4 | 4 | ~9.7 | Clear liquid | Oil cleansers, W/O support, mild cleansing |
| LAURETH-12 | 12 | ~14.8 | Liquid to paste | O/W emulsifier, body washes |
| LAURETH-23 | 23 | ~16.9 | Waxy solid | Solubilizer, high-HLB O/W emulsifier |
LAURETH-4
Laureth-4 has HLB below 10, meaning it is more soluble in oil than water. It is widely used in oil-based cleansing milks, bath oils, and sun care products where the product must emulsify with water on the skin. It also functions as a surfactant-emulsifying agent in deodorants and moisturizers. Laureth-4 gives rise to water-in-oil type behaviour when used as the dominant emulsifier.
LAURETH-12
Laureth-12 sits in the mid-HLB range (~14.8). It emulsifies in lotions and creams, supports cleansing in body washes, and balances between lipophilic and hydrophilic character. It is more water-soluble than Laureth-4 but less hydrophilic than Laureth-23.
LAURETH-23
Laureth-23 is a high-HLB solid emulsifier and one of the most effective laureth grades for solubilizing fragrances, essential oils, and lipophilic actives in water-based systems. It produces oil-in-water emulsions and appears in cleansers, body washes, stick formulations, and products requiring clear solubilization of oil phases. Requires heating to melt into the oil phase during manufacturing.
Oleth comparison: OLETH-10 and OLETH-20
| INCI | EO moles | HLB (approx.) | Base alcohol | Primary use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| OLETH-10 | 10 | ~12.4 | Oleyl (C18 unsaturated) | Surfactant, emulsifier, solubilizer |
| OLETH-20 | 20 | ~15.3 | Oleyl (C18 unsaturated) | O/W emulsifier, cleansing |
Oleth surfactants use oleyl alcohol — an unsaturated C18 chain that gives softer, more fluid emulsion character than stearyl-based ethoxylates. Oleth-10 functions as cleansing, emulsifying, and solubilizing agent in skin care and makeup. Oleth-20 is more hydrophilic and suited to O/W creams and lotions. CIR safety reviews cover Oleth-2 through Oleth-50.
Laureth-4 vs Laureth-12 vs Laureth-23 — when to use which
| Application | Recommended grade | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Oil cleanser / cleansing milk | Laureth-4 | Low HLB; emulsifies with water on contact |
| Body wash / shower gel | Laureth-12 or Laureth-23 | Balanced to high detergency and foam support |
| Fragrance solubilization in toner | Laureth-23 | High HLB; clear aqueous systems |
| Facial O/W lotion | Laureth-12 + low-HLB co-emulsifier | HLB pairing per oil phase |
| Makeup / skin care emulsions | Oleth-10 or Oleth-20 | Unsaturated chain; elegant skin feel |
Formulation note: solubilizing fragrance with Laureth-23
Start with a 3:1 to 4:1 ratio of Laureth-23 to fragrance oil. Pre-mix the solubilizer with the fragrance in the oil phase, then add to the aqueous phase with stirring. Validate clarity at 5°C for 48 hours before scale-up. For lighter systems, Oleth-10 or polysorbate 20 may suffice at lower use levels.
Safety profile
Laureth and Oleth grades are non-ionic surfactants reviewed by CIR. As ethoxylated ingredients, they should be supplied with controlled 1,4-dioxane levels. They are biodegradable under aerobic conditions. EU CosIng lists these INCI names for cosmetic use.
Venus supply
Laureth and Oleth grades are listed on the co-surfactants & emulsifiers page alongside Ceteareth and Glycereth products. Related guides: Ceteareth guide, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, cosmetic emulsifiers hub.
Request samples via contact Venus Ethoxyethers.
Advanced grade selection with HLB banding
For Laureth and Oleth systems, successful formulations usually apply HLB banding rather than single-grade dependence. Low-EO grades (such as Laureth-4) support oil-rich or cleansing-oil behavior, while high-EO grades (Laureth-23, Oleth-20) improve aqueous dispersion and solubilization. The practical objective is to match required HLB and sensory profile simultaneously, not only to maximize emulsion stability.
Oleth grades, due to unsaturated oleyl chain origin, are often preferred when formulators want softer and more emollient rub-in in creams and makeup-adjacent products. Laureth grades are frequently selected for cleaner handling and stronger cleansing/solubilization performance in rinse-off formats.
Grade positioning table for product developers
| INCI | Hydrophilic/lipophilic balance | Best-use zone | Process consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| LAURETH-4 | Low-mid HLB | Cleansing oils, W/O-supporting blends | Usually easy cold incorporation |
| LAURETH-12 | Mid-high HLB | Body wash, lotion co-emulsifier | Check viscosity curve with salts |
| LAURETH-23 | High HLB | Fragrance and oil solubilization | Often requires heating/melting |
| OLETH-10 | Mid HLB | Skin care and makeup systems | Good sensory in light emulsions |
| OLETH-20 | High HLB | O/W creams, gentle cleansing | Combine with structurant for body |
Worked formulation example: clear fragrance mist solubilization
| Component | % w/w | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Water | q.s. to 100 | Carrier |
| Ethanol (optional) | 10–20 | Volatility and clarity support |
| LAURETH-23 | 2.0–4.0 | Primary solubilizer |
| Fragrance oil | 0.5–1.0 | Sensory |
| Humectant package | 1.0–3.0 | Skin feel |
| Preservative | as required | Micro protection |
Begin by pre-blending fragrance with Laureth-23, then add gradually to aqueous phase under gentle stirring. Evaluate clarity at room temperature, 5°C, and 45°C. If clouding persists, trial an Oleth-20 co-solubilizer or adjust fragrance polarity.
Worked formulation example: light O/W facial lotion
| Phase | Material | % w/w | Role |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Caprylic/capric triglyceride + ester oil | 10.0 | Emollient phase |
| A | OLETH-20 | 1.8 | Primary O/W emulsifier |
| A | LAURETH-12 | 0.8 | Co-emulsifier balance |
| A | Cetyl alcohol | 1.2 | Body and structure |
| B | Water + glycerin | q.s.; 4.0 glycerin | Aqueous phase |
| C | Preservative and actives | as required | Performance package |
This mixed system can provide a softer finish than cetearyl-heavy bases while retaining acceptable long-term stability. If cream body is too low, increase fatty alcohol or add a secondary structuring polymer.
Regulatory and labeling notes
Laureth and Oleth families are established INCI classes in personal care markets, but customer qualification often requires detailed impurity and process declarations for ethoxylated materials. Ensure quality files include relevant controls for 1,4-dioxane and residual ethylene oxide according to buyer standards and destination regulations.
For sensitive claims (for example, “mild” or “gentle”), support the claim with finished-product testing rather than ingredient identity alone. Surfactant blend ratio, preservative system, and fragrance load strongly influence irritation profile.
Manufacturing and troubleshooting tips
- Low-temperature crystallization: high-EO solids may need controlled cooling and suitable storage conditions.
- Unexpected haze: re-check fragrance polarity and order of addition.
- Foam too low in rinse-off products: blend with amphoteric co-surfactant instead of only increasing Laureth-23.
- Watery lotion texture: add structural co-emulsifier or fatty alcohol support.
Process robustness recommendations
For consistent production, establish a fixed protocol for melting, pre-mixing, and controlled cooling, especially with high-EO solids such as Laureth-23. Maintain validated shear ranges for lab, pilot, and full-scale equipment to avoid hidden droplet-size differences that appear only during accelerated aging.
- Check cloud point: include low-temperature hold in release criteria for clear products.
- Monitor pH drift: surfactant blends can shift apparent clarity at different pH values.
- Standardize fragrance pre-blends: variability here is a common cause of haze complaints.
Commercial use-case summary
Laureth and Oleth programs are especially effective for companies managing mixed portfolios that include both cleansers and leave-on emulsions. By adjusting EO level and chain type, teams can reuse a common development framework while still delivering differentiated texture and performance across product categories. This modular approach also simplifies procurement planning and technical training across regional manufacturing sites. It supports faster customer sampling cycles and more predictable quality outcomes.
Venus Ethoxyethers cross-links
Continue with Ceteareth and Ceteth guide, PEG laurate/oleate guide, HLB scale guide, and co-surfactants and emulsifiers. Commercial and technical support is available via Venus Ethoxyethers contact.